Dense fog broken only by scattered showers made my early morning drive to Rockland a stressful journey. There was no stars or moon to break the darkness, only thick, cloying whiteness and occasional city street lights. It wasn’t until I was within ten minutes of my destination that the sun began to break the night, dimly lighting the trees around me.
Irish Hollow Cemetery and Rockland’s South Bluff were my destinations this morning. The cemetery was of particular interest to me as I’ve heard an old tale about it. Around the turn of the century the people of Rockland were about to dedicate the new Irish Hollow Cemetery, a big event for a small Upper Peninsula mining community. The town was rapidly expanding thanks to the nearby, and very successful, mine. There was a little girl who had to stay at home, a girl who liked to play with firecrackers. Her parents had told her not to play with them anymore but as soon as they were out of sight she hauled out her stash. One of the firecrackers lit the house’s curtain on fire. Unable to stop the spreading flames the girl ran up the hill to the cemetery, desperately calling for help. No one believed her. I’m not sure if she had a boy-who-cried-wolf problem or was just known to be annoying, but everyone ignored her until they saw the smoke rising from beyond the trees. By then it was too late and most of the town was lost. The cemetery’s beginnings was at a time of great growth and devastation, an ominous start for a final resting place.
Today’s weather did little to cheer up the area. I parked near the sign, barely able to see more than a few dozen yards into the woods, and headed along the slushy two-track. The plan was to visit the cemetery first and then head up the trail to the bluff. Always prepared, I did not do much research into the area and was surprised when I saw some headstones intermixed with the trees a short distance from the highway. There was no fence or cleared area, just cement monuments marching away from where I stood into the forest, fading out in the fog.
I pulled my shirt a little tighter around me from the chill of the fog and continued down the path. Some of the graves were marked with large cement spires, while others had only small, leaning markers that blended in with the stumps. I’ve never seen a cemetery like this, one that seemed so natural. Smooth cut grass and neat geometric plots are what I’m used to. This felt more like an Indian burial ground than an established, religious cemetery. It felt more familiar, more hallowed, and I felt myself connecting with the eroded names on a deeper level than a strange name usually would.
Passing the graves I found myself drawn to the far corner, where the track started looping around. There was a path here, barely defined in the wet snow. The first grave here was ancient, only four low posts left standing from what must have been a small fence. Beyond that was a taller monument with a small military flag at its foot. Smaller headstones went further into the woods but I stopped at the veteran’s site. I didn’t recognize the name, didn’t recognize anyone’s name here, but I paused here for the fallen soldier.
The track looped around back to the entrance and I followed. I was starting to wonder if the cemetery was still used when a newer plot opened up on the right. Several large monuments and a row of markers were laid out on the flat, even ground. It was almost weird to see it so planned out compared to the older areas, but I assume that one day the forest would overtake this land as well. I walked away from Irish Hollow Cemetery with a somber but curious feeling and headed up to the second destination.
Leading away from the highway and my parked car the two-track actually leads due south, with a loop branching off to the east for the cemetery. The main route heads up the bluff after transitioning into a four-wheeler path. A combination of slick snow and mud along the trail forced me to zig and zag up, slowly making my way up the steepening path. The climb was short but strenuous, leading through a spookily foggy forest, before flattening out on top of the bluff.
I wasn’t sure what to expect up here, if the trail would lead straight to the rocky outcroppings along the south face or if I’d have to bushwhack off the path. I should have expected the fog, though. Thick and dense it hid the cliff’s edge. As far as I knew anything could exist beyond the forest’s end: a steep drop, more trees, or imaginary sinister creatures. In no rush to venture out of the protective woods yet I followed the thinning path westwards, parallel to the bluff’s edge. Eventually I forced myself off the path onto the rocky edge, creeping along the snow-covered slope. The density of the fog was unnerving and blocked a full 180° of view.
This was not worth furthering the hike. After staring helplessly some more at the sheer curtain ahead of me I turned and headed back down. I knew I would return, maybe during the next fall color change, especially after knowing just how short and easy the climb here was. As I skidded down the slope I also thought of the cemetery and what it represented. There are other old mining resting places, like the old one up by the Cliffs beyond Calumet. This one seemed special for some reason. Maybe it was because the people of Rockland still use it, or maybe because of it’s history, but Irish Hollow Cemetery seemed different. I drove away from here glad that I had visited, even if the bluff’s towering views had been completely nullified by the morning’s weather.
dcclark
The views from the bluff are great from the right spots on the right days. The Michigan E shaft is nearby, with some spectacular ruins but not much of a view. The Peninsula Mine is farther along, with fewer ruins but great views. If you haven't been to the nearby National and Minesota/Michigan mines, you really need to -- they have some *amazing* views and ruins.
Jacob Emerick
I had heard good things of the views but the darn fog was impenetrable. Don't know a lot about the old mines. I was thinking of making a fall trip up there next year and hitting up several of the nearby bluffs on either side of the Ontonagon River and would love to see some ruins on the way. Would you recommend digging around on the CC forum or checking out CCE?
dcclark
It's always best to ask on the CC Forum. :) I wouldn't bother digging around there much unless you really feel like it -- just post and ask for recommendations (which I'll gladly add to). Mike had a post on CCE about the Michigan/Minesota, but nothing about the Michigan E, National, or Peninsula (all of which are great). There's also a lot to find and see along the bluffs to the east (going up towards Mass city), with some amazing views along the way.
Jacob Emerick
Good to hear - thanks for the heads up, Dave! I'll be sure to head over that way when I start researching for that hike... Winter has got me grounded in WI for now.
Brian
Jacob, after coming across your Fourteen Mile Point post I have been perusing some of your other excursions. They are fun to read. I had to comment on this one. I could picture the landscape and felt like I was walking along the trail with you. The fog, although it obstructed any far-reaching views, kinda added to the mystery and suspense of the surroundings, especially in a cemetery. In that last foggy photo you took, I could almost sense the "creatures" staring at you just beyond sight in the dense fog. Cool stuff.
Jacob Emerick
I'm glad you're enjoying the posts, Brian! Writing down these adventures and sharing them is a great way for me to relive them, and this one was definitely one of the creepier ones. To spend four or five hours on the road, alone, and then to walk into an area like this... Still gives me goose bumps. Thank you, sir.
Patrick M Murphy
Enjoyed your Blog. You Photographed my great grandfather and grandmother's grave.It was the fenced gravesite with the tall spire. Also the stone marker for Catherine and Daniel was for two of their children. The bottom half of the stone was missing for years but has now been found. I will be visiting the Cemetery this summer with a Murphy cousin from Montana.
Jacob Emerick
Thanks you Patrick, glad you enjoyed it! I hope you have a good visit this summer.
Jacob Emerick
Hi Patrick, glad you enjoyed it! Hope you had a good visit this summer.
Paula Engle
I understand the headstone of Mary Skelton, 1st wife of Charles Ongie, was found. He was my great - grandfather.
Nancy Sandecki
I too am a descendant of Mary Skelton and Charles Ongie
Pam Sanderson Meinke
I enjoyed your pictures also! About 6-7 years ago, my husband and I stumbled across this cemetery, and decided to investigate. It was late summer...and the tall weeds hid everything from view as we pulled into the narrow drive. We started to turn around to go when I noticed Lily-of-the-Valley plants spilling out near the driveway...and, then I KNEW there would be a cemetery not far away!!
We got out of the car, and found an animal trail leading us under the canopy of the trees...and, as we ducked down to go explore, was suddenly rushed from above by a couple big hawks! They must be the guardians...
As we worked our way into the cemetery, I was quite taken by the blanket of myrtle (groundcover) that completely covered every grave! The low green plant had woven its way across the entire cemetery...easily showing each grave. Many had no stone, but we knew it was a grave...the long rectangular shape of a coffin was visible in the sunken down soil...and they were in long, neat rows. A few of the graves with markers had iris planted near the stones...and I wondered how long they'd survived.
When we left Irish Hollow, we stopped at a tiny museum in Rockland. A little lady sat rocking and crocheting in the doorway, and invited us in. This building used to be a school...it was filled with memories of times past. Among the pictures on the wall, I noticed a little white wooden church with a cemetery next to it...only a few trees were planted in the cemetery. The name beneath the picture said "Irish Hollow Church"................
Jacob Emerick
Hi Pam, sounds like you had a very pleasant visit. Seeing the cemetery in the summer, with the creeping green and hidden headstones, must be a totally different experience. And then the follow-up, seeing the old church afterwards... what a wonderful day :)
J Regan
Thanks for posting pictures of the Irish Hollow Cemetery. Never saw this during the winter months.
The cemetery has roughly 220 grave sites. There was originally a church here in the Cemetery but that has been gone since the 1880's when the Catholic Church rebuilt on a new site in the town of Rockland. That church (St. Mary's Catholic Church) is still there.
The town opened a new cemetery back around 1900 (Woodlawn Cemetery) which is just west of the town by about 3/4 mile. Your story about the fire in Rockland was pretty much right on as we hear it growing up.
Back to the Irish Hollow Cemetery---
The cemetery was decommissioned by the Catholic Diocese years ago. The cemetery was purchased by a private party so that one last person could be buried there and that individual was Elinor Jeffs Regan - Hawley buried in 2002. I cant give out any more information than that, but this is now a privately owned and maintained property, but not closed to the public.
Jacob Emerick
Thank you for stopping by and sharing, J. It's wonderful to hear that even though this property is private the landowners have decided to both maintain and keep it open to the public.
James Regan
just saw your blog. Your story is partially correct. Irish Hollow Cemetery has been there since the 1840's and there was a church at that site which blew down in a winter storm in the late 1800's. The Cemetery being dedicated when the fire occurred in Rockland was Woodlawn Cemetery which is just west of town out on Townsend street.
Elizabeth McBride
I stopped here today, and as I went to snap my firstphoto my camera battery died! Things that makes you go hmmmmmm. It's a fascinating cemetery. I visit a lot of cemeteries and this is the most unique one to date. I loved your winter photos. I can't wait to return in a week or so.
Mary Arnold
Hi. Just visited The cemetery today and it's just as described in the post, the ground covered, roses, lily-of-the-valley and mossy trails leading to the gravesites very unique and cemetery. Came across his blog when looking for who the O'Rourke's might've been.
Linda Simmons
I just visited this enchanting cemetery today, however, the snow was too deep to explore the grave sites... I will return!