Slate Quarries of Arvon

Hiking by Jacob Emerick

The Huron Bay Quarry (better known as Arvon Quarry) and town of Arvon didn’t have a very long lifespan. Around 300 people lived out here once, halfway between the entrance of Silver River into Huron Bay and Mount Arvon, and pulled slate from the pits for around thirty years. The entire operation was closed down in the 1890s, right around the time that the Iron Range & Huron Bay Railroad was being built. The town soon dried up and left only a few large pits and overgrown fruit orchards as a reminder of the bustling activity here.

Splashing sounds lured me from my tent. I had spent the night on the edge of the old quarry, a restless sleep on hard ground, sore from a long string of hikes yesterday. The ground was wet from an overnight drizzle or heavy dew, I wasn’t sure, as I made my way clumsily towards Slate River. There was a surprising amount of loose slate scattered around the woods that skittered and cracked under my blundering footfalls that slowed me passage down to a cautious creep. I didn’t feel like taking a tumble so early in the morning, before the sun was up, when I had a whole quarry to explore.

Mossy stacked slate wall rising from the right bank of a fast, whitewater stream in spruce woods
Footings of an old bridge

There was no real waterfall here, not like Black Slate or Quartzite Falls only a mile or two downstream, yet the river dropping loudly down some rapids was still pleasant to watch. Looking downstream I saw an interesting feature, a rise of slate pilings on the far side of the river. It looked suspiciously like the footings of an old bridge. If there was an old bridge here they sure dropped a lot of rock here for it, as the ends and grade was all built with loose slate chunks. I thought about attempting a crossing of the river to see what was on the far side that warranted a bridge. The high waters convinced me to stay on the west side. There may have been a nice high bridge here once but now there was just rushing water and me.

Long ridge of flat gray slate slabs mounded among bare saplings and spruce, moss and dead leaves between stones
Wet slick piles of slate rock

I headed back west, climbing the bridge footing on the way back, bypassing my campsite on the way out. The rock up here was interesting. There were large chunks that may have been economically viable and smaller, worn pieces that approached the consistency of a gritty sand.

This didn’t make much sense to me. I understand waste rock - not all the rock that you mine out is rich enough to process - but there was a lot of slate here and this was a slate quarry. Were they only interested in huge slabs and had to dig out/blast out around to get to the ‘good pieces’? Or did they just dig, dig, and dig and then ship out pieces when it was convenient? However this place was managed it was obvious that they had, and still have, far more slate than the market needed.

After passing my campsite I headed south, following Slate River upstream along a narrow little track. There were a few puddles along the way that stretched across the road but none that caused too much of a detour. After a few hundred yards I noticed some piles of slate to my right that dwarfed the bridge footings from earlier. I found a small path leading that way and left the road, curious as to what was over here, and managed to sneak along one and come out on a huge pond. A very familiar looking pond.

Bank of broken dark slate slabs on the right, spruces growing from it, cedar boughs framing the left under a white sky
Mirror pond surrounded by slate

Several years ago Katie and I had taken a drive down the Peshekee Grade right up to this quarry. It was a long and snowy drive, one I’m not entirely sure I would attempt in my little car (we were in her old SUV). We didn’t stay long at Arvon, stopping long enough to see this one pond surrounded by heaps of slate, eat some lunch, and head east over the Yellow Dog Plains. I now stood on the far side of the pond, gazing across at the spot where we had stood three years ago, and then turned and left the memory behind.

The track continued south beyond the first pond. I wasn’t entirely sure where I was walking but figured that the track had to go somewhere. Soon enough the forest opened up and the road started to climb up a hill of slate. As I climbed the hill I peered over to the left, down towards Slate River. The rocks slid down right into the water, creating an odd illusion of a slick wave rising up from the river below.

Gravel track over a mound of broken grey slate slabs, spruce and bare saplings on both sides
A road climbing up the slate
Flat grey slate slabs covering a steep bank; whitewater rapids run past below dark conifers
Slate spilling down into the river

The road evened out and a second rise of slate lay like a wall ahead of me. These pieces were huge, again making me wonder how much of these piles were made up of waste vs excess. It was also obvious that I had hit a popular spot, as many of the rocks had messages scrawled out with spray paint across their face. Curious I headed up the second rise, passing the messages, trying to find out exactly how big this spread was.

Names and a white smiley face painted on flat dark slate slabs below spruce trees
Marked up piles of rock
Orange spray paint across flat dark slate slabs on a mound of grey shards, spruce and bare trees behind
Boulders, rocks, and grains

There was a lot of slate. It sprawled out to the southwest in long fingers, stretching into a swamp, and towered high above the forest floor below. It was not tall enough to break through the trees, though another dozen feet could potentially open up some humble views. I crept along the fingers, making my way to the swamp, hoping to find another pit to explain all this slate. I doubted it came from the swamp or the pond I had passed earlier, as neither seemed large enough to explain the tons below my feet.

Mound of broken flat slate slabs in the foreground, spruce and bare-branched trees behind under pale sky
Early sun on the swamp

As I picked my way over the unsteady ground my back was slowly lit by the rising sun which had finally started to break the horizon. I couldn’t find a pit, though a small pond was barely visible to the west, one that was much smaller than the northern one. I turned and headed back to the road.

After the track climbed up the tip of the huge spread of slate it curled back north to complete a large loop around the north pond. I ventured back to it and followed it, gazing at the occasional pile of slate that soared up in the nearby woods. There was little structure to the place, with huge heaps of slate spread about randomly not easily matched up with any pits. I added this to my pile of questions as I neared the large pond and stood at the same spot Katie and I had visited years ago.

Spruce trees and a broken rock bank reflected in still water under a pale overcast sky
Dark calm pond

On the way back to my car, which was parked just off of Arvon Road, I paused a few times and peered into the woods. I wasn’t sure where the old town of Arvon had been, or even if any foundations remained, but I figured keeping an open eye wouldn’t hurt. There were a few ditches, probably for draining the pits, and some open woods for possible fields or orchards. No foundations or ruins showed up on the way out. The town of Arvon eluded me, hidden in time and brush.

A fallen barkless trunk lies along the right edge of a grassy opening ringed by leafless saplings and scattered spruce
Odd clearing in the woods

There are more quarries out here, at least three more to the east, that I would like to visit one day. None of them are as expansive as these, though, and I’m not sure if I’d even find piles of rock or just swampy holes in the ground out there. I’ve also heard of a graphite mine out here, which may have been a side venture at one of the quarries (maybe even Arvon Quarry itself). Another day, perhaps.

Comments (13)

  1. Douglas Feltman

    I was hoping you might find yet another unnamed waterfall on that section of the Slate River. Oh well.....

    1. Jacob Emerick

      Sorry Douglas, not this time. With that river, though, I'm sure there's some more unnamed drops upstream that either one of us could label :P

    2. Douglas Feltman

      There is one unnamed drop on the Slate we could call Emerick Falls. It's between "Feltman" Falls and Ecstasy Falls. Phil called it lower Ecstasy Falls.

    3. Jacob Emerick

      Ha ha, sounds good. Though, TBH, if I had to pick a waterfall I'd go w/ 'Upper Mulligan Falls'. Hell of a trek to find it, have yet to see any other photos of the drop cross the internets.

  2. s

    Amazing how much slate is still sitting around up there. I heard that Fred Rydholm hauled enough out to build a porch. I guess it turned out pretty rough,but the price was right.

    1. Jacob Emerick

      I've heard stories of plenty of people hauling slate away - surprised that Fred actually paid, from the stories I thought it was free. Judging from the size of the piles I'd guess that there's enough for a few more porches :P

  3. nailhed

    Yess! i LOVED this place when i was here in 2012. i had no idea there was so much to see.

    when i went it was sunny & fall color was peaking, and with all the piles of blueish slate mixed in, it made for a mind-bendingly beautiful scene.

    i did not see the bridge footing you saw...however, i did find one ruined foundation to an obvious building immediately on the south bank of the bigger pond. it had the long threaded bolts sticking up like you see at copper mines, so it had some industrial function. that was the only blg i found, but there were many other instances of what seemed to be retaining walls or some other type of foundation made out of obviously stacked slate:
    http://www.panoramio.com/user/5217064/tags/Arvon

    1. Jacob Emerick

      Oh wow, great pictures sir! I missed the colors by a wide margin on my visit, though a few hints of walls were sitting around (though I didn't focus on them, thought they were just nice stacks, not actual walls). Wish I would have seen the threaded bolts, that would have been a nice hint.

      I think I saw a hint of the old railroad grade, extended up from Arvon Road, though it may have been just an old drive. Did you keep an eye out for that on your visit?

    2. nailhed

      ummm, i dont remember seeing a RR grade, i dont think. then again i didnt think to look.

      and yeah, i was wondering for quite a while about those stacks, trying to envision what it was they were for--whether just stacks of inventory, or an actual structure. i have to believe that they were structural, but for what reason?

      this place is worthy of more investigation. definitely one of the most amazing places i've happened upon in MI.

  4. Shane

    First off Jacob, I stumbled upon your blogs earlier this summer and they have provided great reading in my free time, along with additional ideas for explorations of my own (most notably Upper Jacobs Falls and Fenner Falls so far)

    As for Arvon Quarry, a very interesting spot for multiple reasons. You can definitely tell that plenty of people come to pick through the rock (in my mind I imagine for landscaping purposes). The easily accessible piles have been thoroughly picked over for nice, flat pieces that are good sized yet easy to handle. While piles away from the two tracks still contained loads of good landscaping slate. When I visited, there must have been at least 10 turtles out in the sun on different dead wood within the pond. Lastly, amazing how quickly signs of civilization disappear into nature with no upkeep.

    1. Jacob Emerick

      Hi Shane, great to hear from you! Glad you've been able to pick up some good ideas for exploring. There's so much to do up there one could fill up year after year with new adventures (heh, like this blog).

      That's a good point about the quarries. Most of the piles are accessible by truck, with that track that winds around in a big loop, but the back sides have hardly been touched. Guess if one was hauling a large load they may not want to trudge back up and over the heap. And that's awesome on the turtles - wish there was some out on this trip.

  5. Jim and Nancy Haun

    Another good one Jacob-many of the locals have availed themselves of the Quarries slate for landscaping purposes. Hint-check out Witz's Marina-the building is made from slate! My walkway in front of my house is made from the Quarry slate-we went into the woods and had to carry the "right" pieces out. Your photos are beautiful!

  6. Curt Koth

    Hi Jacob,
    Back in the early 2000s my wife and I found the quarries and the remnants of the small town just north of the quarries. I stumbled upon a couple of hop vines that were probably used by the town brewer so many years ago. Amazing a century later there are still hints of what was a small community.